Friday, June 7, 2013

Surf Journal


Break: Shaw's Bay
Conditions: 0.5-2 foot. Clean right-hander

I think I'm getting better at catching waves. I did great at the beginning, but then fatigue diminished by abilities.

It is important to paddle OUT if you think the wave will break too soon for you to catch it. Catching the white water isn't the goal anymore.

I must respond to changing conditions more quickly. The tide caused the break to move a bit, and I need to learn to read the ocean better.


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