Surf Journal

I read recently (in a how-to-surf book) that it is very important to keep a journal of your surf sessions.

3 - 4 sentences to document your progress. Apparently this will improve one's progress.

I've been surfing on and off since I've arrived on this continent. I will start journalling about it now.


Break: Shaw's Bay (south of Byron Bay)
Conditions: 1-2 foot high right handers. Clean.

I went out on a longboard today, and the added stability was helpful, compared to my usual board, which is a hybrid. I was more successful today in catching waves, and I think this was due to a combination of larger board, and smaller, beginner friendly waves. I think I sorta turned on one wave, and that was quite thrilling.

Going forward, I need to work on trying to catch the wave in the right place, and at the right speed. There is such a thing as paddling too much!