Surf Journal

Break: Torquay (main beach)
Conditions: Choppy, messy


Being back on my own board after the 10 foot boards in Byron Bay proved to be very challenging. I had a lot of difficulty standing up.
I attribute this to:
1. tippier board
2. slippery board
3. crappy conditions

I'm going to try waxing my board a bit more, especially along the rails. Will also start popping up on dry land more to get the motion smooth.

Those little kiddies I see seem to catch waves so effortlessly! Learning stuff young seems to be the way to go.